Car emergencies while driving: blowouts, brake failure and skids
How to stay in control through blowouts, brake failure, a stuck gas pedal and skids
Picture a driver at 65 mph on a summer interstate. There’s a bang and a shudder. Then the car starts tugging toward the shoulder. What happens in the next 3 seconds depends less on luck than on a few moves the driver has rehearsed.
In 2024, 511 people died in tire related crashes, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) [1]. Brake trouble, stuck pedals, stalls and skids are rare moments too, which is exactly why most drivers have never practiced them.
This guide explains each emergency through the physics of grip and weight, then gives the calm routine instructors teach. Tools at the end help you learn your own car.
The physics in one minute: grip is a budget
Each tire touches the road with a patch of rubber not much bigger than your hand. Those four patches are all the grip you have. You spend it on braking, steering and speeding up. If you ask for too much at once, or too suddenly, a tire starts to slide.
Sudden moves also shift weight. Hard braking loads the front tires and lightens the rear. So a panic stab at the brakes in a curve can swing the back end out. Snapping your foot off the gas does the same thing on a smaller scale. The fix is always firm but smooth inputs.
Tire blowout: keep the car balanced
A blowout usually starts with a bang or heavy thump, then flapping and vibration. A failed front tire pulls the car hard toward that side. A failed rear tire can make the back sway.
NHTSA’s goal for a blowout is to keep the car balanced and controllable [1]:
- Grip the wheel firmly with both hands and hold your lane [1].
- If it’s safe, keep a little gas on for a moment rather than lifting suddenly, then ease off gradually [1].
- Steer only as much as needed to stay straight, looking where you want to go [1].
- Let the car slow and turn on your hazards. Once it tracks straight, brake gently and pull off where it’s safe [1].
NHTSA warns that overreacting, by slamming the brakes or yanking your foot off the gas, can cost you control [1]. The shredded tire drags hard on its corner. Hard braking asks the good tires for grip they are already using to keep you straight.
NHTSA ties blowouts to low tire pressure, skipped maintenance, aging tires and sustained heat, such as long drives in hot weather [1]. Our vehicle maintenance guide shows the monthly checks that help prevent them.
Brake failure: soft pedal, hard pedal or fade
“Brake failure” can mean three different things:
- The pedal sinks or feels spongy: often a fluid leak. Most modern cars split the hydraulic system into two circuits, so partial braking usually remains, but stops take longer.
- The pedal turns rock hard: you’ve lost power assist, often because the engine stalled. The brakes still work with much more leg force.
- The brakes fade on a long downhill: overheated pads and rotors grip less and less.
What to do:
- Take your foot off the gas and press the brake hard.
- If the pedal sinks to the floor, pump it quickly a few times to try to build pressure.
- Shift to a lower gear (L, 2 or the paddle shifters). In a hybrid or electric car, choose the strongest regenerative braking setting, if it has one.
- Apply the parking brake gradually. With a hand lever, hold the release button so you can ease off if the rear wheels lock. Electronic switches work differently (see below).
- Turn on your hazards and use the horn.
- Steer toward the safest escape path, such as an uphill side road, an open shoulder or a posted escape ramp.
- Once stopped, don’t drive on. Have the car towed.
To prevent fade, pick a lower gear at the top of a long grade and brake in firm, separate applications.
Stuck accelerator: brakes plus neutral
A gas pedal can stay down because a floor mat pins it, the pedal sticks, or a foot is on the wrong pedal. In North Carolina crash data, NHTSA researchers found about half of pedal mix ups happened while drivers were turning or backing up [8]. Driver age, height and pedal layout all played a role [8].
What to do:
- Press the brake firmly and keep holding it. On many gas engines, pumping drains the brake booster’s stored assist, which doesn’t refill at full throttle.
- Shift to neutral, and let the engine roar if it does.
- Steer to a safe spot, stop and shut off the engine. If you can’t get out of gear, shutting off while moving is the last resort.
- Don’t reach down to free the pedal while moving.
With a key, turn it to “off,” never to “lock,” which can lock the steering. With a push button start, the shutdown method varies. Many cars need a long press or several quick presses. Look yours up now, parked, in the owner’s manual.
Many newer vehicles also have brake override software that cuts engine power when you brake hard. Treat it as a backup, not a plan. To prevent one common cause, use one floor mat made for your vehicle, clipped into its anchors.
Engine stall or sudden loss of power
When an engine quits, the car keeps rolling and you keep control. What changes is effort. Hydraulic power steering stops helping. The brake booster runs on its reserve. The wheel gets heavy and the pedal goes hard, but both still work if you push harder.
What to do:
- Turn on your hazards and grip the wheel firmly.
- Shift to neutral and try to restart if traffic allows. Your manual explains how restarts work in your car.
- If it won’t restart, use your momentum to reach the shoulder or an exit, signaling early.
- Brake with strong, steady pressure. Pumping wastes the reserve assist.
- Once stopped, follow our roadside breakdown guide.
Hybrids and electric cars can lose drive power too. How their steering and brake assist behave depends on the design.
When the steering suddenly gets heavy
Many newer cars use electric power steering. If it fails, a warning light may come on and the wheel turns heavy. But the mechanical link remains, so you can still steer. At highway speed you may barely notice. In a slow, tight turn you’ll need real muscle.
Grip with both hands, slow down gradually, and use more effort rather than sudden movements. Turn on your hazards, pull off where it’s safe, and have the car inspected.
Steering and brake defects can be safety recalls. Check your 17 character vehicle identification number (VIN) on NHTSA’s recall site. Recall repairs at the dealer are free [9]. If no recall exists, you can report a problem to NHTSA online or at 888-327-4236 [10].
Skids: rear slides, front plows, ABS and ESC
In a rear wheel skid, the back tires lose grip and the rear swings out. In a front wheel skid, the front tires lose grip. You turn the wheel, but the car plows straight ahead.
Rear wheel skid:
- Ease off the gas and the brake.
- Look and steer where you want the car to go, as AAA advises [3].
- Make quick, small corrections and expect the rear to swing back. Overcorrecting that second swing is the classic mistake.
- For large corrections, use hand over hand steering. NHTSA lists skid recovery as one of its uses [2].
Front wheel skid:
- Ease off the gas or brake slightly so the front tires can grip again.
- Unwind the steering a little. More angle won’t help a sliding tire.
- As the steering firms up, steer smoothly toward your path.
Braking: With ABS, press hard and hold. Pulsing, buzzing or grinding means the system is working, so steer around the problem. AAA advises keeping your heel on the floor and pressing with the ball of your foot, ABS or not [4]. Without ABS, brake just short of locking the wheels. If they lock, ease off and squeeze again.
ESC brakes individual wheels and can cut power to keep the car going where you steer. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) says it has been required on most passenger vehicles since 2012 models and substantially reduces deadly loss of control crashes [5]. It first appeared on 1995 models but wasn’t standard on every new model until 2017 [12]. Young and older drivers are more likely to drive older vehicles without it, IIHS notes [6].
On snow and ice, the same routine applies. See our snow and ice guide.
Warn traffic, pick an escape path, decide when to leave the road
Warn other drivers early. Turn on your hazards once the car is stable. Use the horn if someone is about to move into your path. Use headlights at dusk or in rain.
Choose the softest outcome. Crash energy rises with the square of speed. So slowing from 60 mph to 30 mph removes about 75% of it (our calculation). Rank your options:
- An open lane, a wide paved shoulder or an exit ramp.
- A level, open area off the pavement, such as grass or gravel.
- Something that gives, such as brush or a snowbank.
- A glancing scrape along a guardrail rather than a square hit.
- Never a head on hit with oncoming traffic, trees, poles or bridge supports if any other choice exists.
Stay in the lane or move off? NHTSA advises pulling off after a blowout only when and where you judge it’s safe [1]. If the car becomes hard to control, Ready.gov advises pulling over, stopping and setting the parking brake [11].
Comparison compiled by Safety Behind the Wheel Foundation
| Situation | Best move |
|---|---|
| Car is controllable and a wide shoulder or exit is ahead | Signal, slow down and move fully off the road |
| Shoulder is narrow, has a drop off or ends at a guardrail | Stay in the lane with hazards on and aim for the next wide spot |
| Brakes are failing and traffic is stopped ahead | Steer early for open space and use every slowing tool |
| Wheels drop off the pavement edge | Ease off and return gently once slow; see our roadway departure guide |
| Car is stopped in a lane and can’t move | Hazards on, stay buckled and call 911 |
Emergency quick reference table
Comparison compiled by Safety Behind the Wheel Foundation
| Situation | First 3 actions | Don’t |
|---|---|---|
| Tire blowout | Grip with both hands; hold your lane; ease off the gas slowly | Slam the brakes or jerk the wheel |
| Soft or sinking brake pedal | Press hard; pump if it hits the floor; downshift | Turn off the engine |
| Brakes fading downhill | Lower gear; firm, separate brake applications; head for open space or an escape ramp | Ride the brakes all the way down |
| Stuck gas pedal | Brake hard and hold; shift to neutral; steer to safety | Pump the brakes or reach for the pedal |
| Engine stall | Hazards on; neutral and try a restart; steer to the shoulder | Turn the key to “lock” |
| Heavy steering | Firm two hand grip; slow gradually; pull off | Make sudden, large steering moves |
| Rear wheel skid | Ease off; look and steer where you want to go; catch the swing back | Overcorrect |
| Front wheel skid | Ease off slightly; unwind a little; steer as grip returns | Add more steering |
| Panic stop with ABS | Press hard; hold; steer around | Pump the pedal |
Know your car: the limits of generic advice
No single routine fits every vehicle. Electric and hybrid cars slow with regenerative braking. But NHTSA notes they still use regular brakes for emergency braking and when the battery is full [7]. After a full charge, lifting off the pedal may slow you less than you expect on a long downhill.
Electronic parking brakes, push button starts and electronic gear selectors also differ. In many cars, holding the parking brake switch while moving triggers a controlled emergency stop. But not all work that way. Trucks and buses with air brakes call for separate commercial driver training.
Practice without taking risks
Rehearse out loud: as a passenger, name the first 3 actions for each emergency until they’re automatic.
In a large, empty parking lot, used with permission and far from poles, do a few firm ABS stops from about 15 mph. Feeling the pulse once makes it less startling later. Never practice skids, stalls or engine shutoffs on a public road.
Skid schools and advanced driving courses are designed to build car control. IIHS cautions that skid control training has been linked to higher crash risk in young drivers, especially young males, possibly through overconfidence [6]. Parents of teens can stress rehearsal and hazard spotting instead. Older drivers can make every routine easier with a vehicle that has ESC, ABS and easy to reach controls.
Frequently asked questions
Should you hit the brakes when a tire blows out?
Not hard, since NHTSA warns that slamming the brakes can cost you control [1]. Hold the wheel, ease off the gas gradually and brake gently once the car tracks straight.
Should I pump my brakes in an emergency?
With working ABS, no. Press hard and hold. Pump only if the pedal sinks from lost pressure, or if your car lacks ABS and the wheels lock.
What should I do if my gas pedal gets stuck?
Brake firmly and hold, shift to neutral, steer to a safe spot and stop, then shut off the engine. Check that the floor mat isn’t pinning the pedal before driving again.
Can you turn off a push button car while driving?
Usually, but many need a long press or repeated presses. Shutting down removes power assist. Use it only if neutral fails, and learn your car’s method now.
Does stability control prevent all skids?
No. ESC greatly reduces loss of control crashes [5], but it can only use the grip your tires have. Too much speed for a curve or a slick road can still beat it.
The bottom line
Recommendation from Safety Behind the Wheel Foundation
Rehearse one routine: eyes on the escape path, both hands on the wheel, and smooth, firm inputs. Spend 15 minutes learning how your car shuts down, parks and warns. Keep tires and brakes in good shape so emergencies stay rare.
Related articles
- Roadway departure safety: curves, drop offs and how to recover safely
- Driving in rain: hydroplaning, standing water and flood safety
- Roadside breakdown safety: what to do when your car breaks down
- Vehicle maintenance for safety: tires, brakes, lights and warning signs
- Vehicle recalls and safety defects: how to check, fix and report
Sources and further reading
- 1National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). Tire Safety (TireWise), including “What should I do if I have a tire blowout while driving?” 2024 data; no page date shown; accessed October 3, 2026. nhtsa.gov/vehicle-safety/tires
- 2NHTSA. Using Efficient Steering Techniques (driver education handout). No date shown; accessed October 3, 2026. nhtsa.gov/node/7501
- 3AAA. Wet Weather Driving Tips. No date shown; accessed October 3, 2026. exchange.aaa.com/…/wet-weather-driving-tips
- 4AAA. Winter Driving Tips. No date shown; accessed October 3, 2026. exchange.aaa.com/…/winter-driving-tips
- 5Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS). Young Driver Safety: Key Safety Features. Updated May 2026. iihs.org/…/young-driver-safety
- 6IIHS. Teenagers (research area). Updated August 2026. iihs.org/research-areas/teenagers
- 7NHTSA. Electric and Hybrid Vehicles. No date shown; accessed October 3, 2026. nhtsa.gov/vehicle-safety/electric-and-hybrid-vehicles
- 8Collins W, Evans L, Hughes R (NHTSA). Driver Brake and Accelerator Controls and Pedal Misapplication Rates in North Carolina. DOT HS 812 058. May 2015. nhtsa.gov/document/…pedal-misapplication-rates-north-carolina
- 9NHTSA. Recalls. No date shown; accessed October 3, 2026. nhtsa.gov/recalls
- 10NHTSA. Report a Safety Problem. No date shown; accessed October 3, 2026. nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem
- 11Ready.gov (U.S. Department of Homeland Security). Car Safety. Last updated April 15, 2024. ready.gov/car
- 12IIHS. Advanced Driver Assistance (research area), citing a 2026 Highway Loss Data Institute (HLDI) analysis. Updated September 2026. iihs.org/research-areas/advanced-driver-assistance
This article reflects the safety priorities of vehicle dynamics engineering and advanced driver training. It is general education, not mechanical, legal or professional advice for any individual vehicle. Your owner’s manual comes first. Procedures differ by make and model. Laws, data and vehicle features change, so verify details with official sources. Figures marked as our calculations are simple estimates. Reviewed October 2026.
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